Hardware

When looking for fixings, it can be challenging to pick out the best type for your project without having the screws to hand. After all, if your screw is too large or wide, you risk splitting your material (or even going straight through it). Similarly, different threads, tips and heads are suited to different applications. With that in mind, here are a few tips to keep in mind when shopping online. 

Typically screw sizes will be represented either in metric or imperial scales. Whilst this can be slightly confusing when going back and forth between the two, the information presented is the same. The diameter (outside thread diameter) and length. 

Metric Screws: 3.0 x 12 (Diameter x length in mm) 

Imperial Screws: 4 x 1/2 (Gauge x length in inches) 

Whilst millimetres can be converted to inches and back with relative ease, the exact relationship between gauge and millimetres can be difficult to tie down, which can cause a headache when the two are used interchangeably. To make things a little bit simpler, you can see our handy conversion chart below*.  

Often, picking out the correct type of screw will be as simple as looking at its name. Wood screws are suitable for wood, concrete screws for concrete and so on and so forth. However, considering the number of varying features each screw has built in, this is not always enough to make an informed decision. 
 
Twin Threads, for example, are far more suitable for hardwood as they are easier to drive. This is as opposed to single threads which tend to perform better on softwood and chipboard. When it comes to masonry and concrete, full-threaded screws are generally preferred for their superb grip strength and for metal, it is self-tapping as they cut their own thread. 
 
Depending on the type of finish you want to achieve, you’ll also want to consider the head of your chosen screw. Flat heads provide a seamless, flush finish – perfect for exposed surfaces as they won’t catch on anything brushing past. Domed and oval heads provide a slightly more decorative aesthetic, though are also slightly more secure with larger surface areas. In between these two is the flat head screw which, whilst having a wider design, protrudes only a small degree from the material's surface. 

After being exposed to moisture over an extended period, most screws will inevitably rust and get stuck. However, whilst this may not always be avoidable, plenty of quick solutions are available that’ll free up the fixing so that you can get on with the rest of your job. 
 
1. Screw Extractors – The most obvious place to start is the tool designed for the sole purpose of removing screws. Suitable screw extractors can be simply drilled into the head of your rusted screw, rotated and then pulled by setting your drill to reverse. Bear in mind, however, that this will render the screw unusable. 

2. The Hammer Approach – Using your trusty claw hammer, tap the head of the screw to break the rust seal before applying your choice of lubricant to the area. Strike the screw again and then wait. After ten minutes, this should have broken down the rust enough to allow the screw to be loosened. If not, repeat until the screw can be removed. 

3. Switch to Flat Head Screwdriver on Stripped Screws –   Multiple attempts to forcibly loosen a screw can result in it becoming stripped. This means the drive becomes warped to the point that it is impossible to get a good grip with your screwdriver. To resolve this, a grove can be added to the screw head (using a rotating saw or similar tool), after which you'll find a flat head screwdriver better able to get a secure grip.

• Ring Shank Nail – As their name suggests, these nails have rings across the length of their shanks, offering far greater grip and pull-out resistance versus common nails. Due to this, they are perfect for use in flooring to prevent the boards from squeaking. 
• Masonry Nail - These nails are often made using durable hardened steel with additional grooves along their length. These grooves force the nails to spiral when being driven in, helping to penetrate concrete and brickwork.  
• Clout Nail – The perfect nail for affixing shingles, felt and sheet metal. Clout Nails tend to feature flat, wide heads for easier driving, perfect for roofing applications 
• Brad Nail – A common sight in carpentry, thin brad nails are ideal for finishing without the risk of splitting the wood. Most are suitable for use in a nail gun or to be driven in by hand. 

*These figures have been supplied as guidance only. Please refer to manufacturer's guidelines for precise measurements.