Thinking of replacing your old, worn carpet with a more contemporary option? In search for a natural wood alternative suitable for a busy, fast-paced household? If so, then laminate flooring could be the perfect choice for your living space.

Manufactured to closely mimic pure wood grain, laminate flooring offers all the organic style and warmth of real wood with an additional array of fantastic functional benefits. From enhanced durability to easier maintenance and even better economic value, laminate floors are quickly becoming the go-to flooring choice for many modern homes up and down the country. 

A fundamental selling point of laminate flooring is just how simple it is to install in comparison to timber wood boards. Ideal for those looking to save budget-wise, laminate flooring can be easily installed by any avid DIYer looking to get hands-on with the project. This means you won’t have to fork out for a professional installer and can create your very own dream floor right from home. 

Step 1. Measuring the Space

Typically, laminate wood flooring is available in set packs, containing a specific amount of boards that meet certain measurements. To figure out how many packs you will need of your chosen flooring, you first need to calculate the area of the room. In this post, we will be measuring in square metres. 

Squared/Rectangular Spaces

If your space is completely squared or rectangular, then the measurements will be easier. Use your tape measure to measure the width and height, then multiply the two numbers. 

For example, if your room is 5m x 5m then you will require 10m2 of laminate flooring. 

Extra Nooks & Crannies

If the room incorporates windows, fireplaces or alcoves then you will need to factor these into your measurements too. 

TIP: It helps to draw a complete diagram of the room and work around the different areas. This doesn’t need to be perfect, just ensure you include all of the nooks and crannies.

Measure each individual area, moving around the space. Write the measurements in the appropriate places on your diagram to help you keep track. If your room is an awkward shape, it can help to divide the space into squares or rectangles, calculate these areas first, and then add them all together to reach the total area.

If you want your laminate floor to go under door frames or trims, make sure you incorporate these into the measurements too. 

TIP: Make sure you add 5-10% extra to your measurements to allow for wastage and error. 

Stairs

If you want to refit your stairs with laminate also, then you can follow a similar method to work out the correct measurements. Simply measure the height and depth of each individual stair, and then multiply this number by the width to get the area.

TIP: Don’t forget to add 10% extra again to accommodate waste

How Many Packs Do I Need?

Now you have your measurements ready, it is time to purchase the flooring. On the majority of laminate flooring packs, you will see the pack size presented in square metres.

Here is a simple calculation you can do to work out the exact number of packs required for your living space:

• Take your total room area – For example 25.5m2 
• Divide this number by the pack size – Example 25.5m2 (room area) ÷ 2.5m2 (pack size) = 10.2
• Round this number up to the nearest digit – For example 10.2 rounds to 11 

For this example, 11 packs of laminate flooring are required.

Step 2. Sub-Floor Preparation 

Laminate flooring should always be laid on a completely flat, smooth, clean and dry surface. Without correct subfloor preparation, you run the risk of significantly decreasing the lifespan and durability of your laminate flooring whilst creating a poor, uneven finish. Take these key steps to ensure this doesn’t happen:

1. Remove Old Flooring

All existing carpets, underlay, tiles or vinyl must be completely taken up and removed. You do have the choice of laying laminate over existing floorboards; however, you should ensure these are robustly secured and level with no screws, nails or other fixings sticking up above the surface. 

2. Repairs

Closely inspect your floorboards to make sure they are in an appropriate condition for installing laminate. If you find that your sub-floor is uneven or damaged, then you will need to carry out appropriate repairs before fitting.

If your sub-floor is newly concreted, it must be completely dry and set. 

3. Cleaning 

Use your vacuum cleaner to remove all dust and debris from the surface and scrape or sand off any leftover adhesive. 

Remember: You will achieve the best results if your sub-floor is flat, level, smooth, dry & clean so take the time to prepare.

4. Moisture Content

You must ensure that your sub-floor is completely dry and free from moisture to prevent your flooring from becoming water damaged. A good way of checking your subfloor’s moisture levels is by using a testing kit. These can be easily purchased online or in-store and will help indicate if you have any moisture problems. A sub-floor moisture content should maintain a level below 12%. 

Step 3. Acclimatising 

Similar to any wood flooring, laminate floorboards expand and contract. This is due to varying levels of temperature and humidity. If you take your laminate flooring packs from a warehouse or transit van and install them straight away, then your floor is much more susceptible to cracking and other damage as it expands and then shrinks. 

The simplest way to prevent this from happening is by allowing your laminate flooring to acclimatise to the environment before installation. You can do this by stacking the boards horizontally in the room that you are fitting them in for at least 48 hours. 

Step 4. Pre-Installation Preparation

With the subfloor prepared and materials ready for fitting, it is now time to begin the installation.

1. Expansion Gaps

The general rule is that laminate flooring must be fitted with an expansion gap of between 10-12mm around the edges. This is the case for most types; however, we do advise that you double-check with the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure.

If after measuring your skirting you find that it is at least 10-12mm thick, remove the boards before installation for re-fitting after completion. 

2. Dry Fit

Laminate boards can be fitted both horizontally and vertically across the sub-floor so it is best to dry fit first to decide on the best fit for your space. Keep in mind, however, that if you plan to lay your new laminate on top of floorboards, you will need to lay the boards at a 90° angle to the existing boards.  

Tip: Installing your laminate flooring horizontally can make a smaller room appear much bigger

The final row of laminate boards will need at least 60mm wide. Take the time to plan out the positioning and if needed, lessen the width of the starting row to accommodate for the 60mm width. 

Rememeber: Bear in mind the 10-12mm expansion gap when planning out the positioning of your laminate.

3. Trimming Architrave

To ensure the laminate will fit underneath the architrave, you may need to trim beneath. Remove the door from its frame, then position an offcut of both the underlay and a laminate board in line with the architrave. Next, use a hammer and chisel to carefully remove the correct amount of architrave so that the laminate and underlay can slide into place. Once again, don’t forget the 10-12mm expansion gap

4. Door Thickness

If you are worried that your laminate flooring is too thick for your door to open over it, then you may need to remove your door from the frame and trim slightly to accommodate this.

5. Underlay

Most manufacturers will advise that you first install an appropriate underlay before installing the boards. There are a variety of different types available, so make sure you choose the correct kind for your subfloor. Make sure you also fit your underlay in the same direction as your laminate. 

Damp Proof Membrane (DPM)

When laying onto concrete, you will need to install a damp-proof membrane (DPM) to prevent moisture from rising into your laminate flooring. A damp-proof membrane is a specialist kind of membrane material, designed to stop the gaining of moisture and the spread of dampness. 

If you are installing laminate in a kitchen or bathroom, you must ensure that your laminate is suitable for use in wet areas. Regardless of the room, it is always better to pick underlay with a built-in damp-proof membrane.

Step 5. Fitting

1. Beginning the First Row

Beginning in the left-hand corner of the wall, position your first full-length laminate board. Place the board with the tongue edge against the wall, then move it back slightly to insert spacers between the wall and board. 

Take a second laminate board and align it with the end of the first. Press down firmly to securely click into position. Remember once again, to keep the 10-12mm expansion gap by using the spacers along the edge. 

Continue this method of placing and clicking to lay the first row, using spacers along the full length. As you reach the gap at the end of the line, you will likely find that a full-length board will not fit. 

2. Finishing the First Row

To accommodate the gap, you will need to cut a full-size board to fit. To do this, position a length of laminate up alongside the previous row. Then, flip the board over so that the laminate side is facing the floor. The groove end should still be facing you but the opposite end should now be facing the wall spacer. 

Using your straight edge and pencil, create a cutting guideline, in line with the previously placed laminate board. With the board fully secured onto your workbench, use either a jigsaw or a panel saw to cut along the pencil line. 

Position the cut piece of laminate into place against the end of the previous board, accommodating the expansion gap. Save the offcut from the full-length board for the next step.

3. Starting the Second Row

To create a staggered pattern, you will need to start the second row with a shorter piece of laminate. You may use the previously cut offcut for this if it is at least 300mm long. If not, you will have to measure and cut another board in half.

Tip: The joint between the boards in adjacent rows should always be offset by a minimum of 300mm. 

Starting in the same corner as the previous row, place down the shorter length of laminate next to the previous row and insert a spacer against the wall. Push the tongue edge of the shorter laminate piece into the previously laid row at an angle of 20- 30°. 

4. Continuing the Second Row

Continue placing full-length boards along the second row, placing the tongue into the groove of the previous board at 20-30°, then pressing firmly into place. Repeat the process of installation described for the first row once again to complete the second. 

To create a high-quality, professional finish, there are a few last steps to take before installation is complete.

Radiator Pipes

1. When working around radiator pipes, begin by cutting the board to the correct width/length as you would for a standard fit.
2. Then, position the board next to the pipe, and mark the centre of the pipe onto the board using a tri-square and pencil. Add an extra 20mm to the diameter to accommodate expansion.
3. With the board front onto the pipe this time, draw a line across using a straight edge and pencil to mark the centre. The intersection is where the pipe will be centred. 
4. Fix the board to your workbench with clamps and drill a hole at the intersection using a drill and 32mm flat wood drill bit.
5. Mark two lines from the edges of this hole up to the board’s edge, angled slightly outward. 
6. Cut along the two lines using a jigsaw or panel saw.
7. Slide the board into place around the radiator pipe, then apply grab adhesive to hold the laminate between the wall and pipe. 
8. Trim the profile with a chisel if required, then fit a pipe surround to mask the expansion gap. 

Door Bars

1. Installing a threshold bar will help to level out your floor, add a sleek touch of style and even improve the energy efficiency of your space.
2. Begin by measuring along your door frame using a tape measure and mark out cutting points. Remember to leave the 10-12mm expansion gap on each side. 
3. Cut the door bar down to size.
4. So the door bar sits flush against the door frame, you may need to cut out notches at each end using a hacksaw. 
5. Once cut to fit, install the door bar in place following the manufacturer's advice.

Skirting/Flooring Trim

The last step is covering the expansion gap with skirting or flooring trim. If you previously removed the existing skirting, you can simply re-install if the thickness can cover the entire gap. 

If not, you can instead use flooring trims:

1. After removing the spacers, trim down the membrane to sit just below the height of the laminate boards. 
2. Measure along the edges to work out the length of trim required, mark and cut to size.
3. Using a mitre box and handsaw, cut at angles of 45° to join in each corner.
4. Secure the trims to the skirting using grab adhesive. Make sure you do not fit the trims directly to the laminate floor.  

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