Able to provide a seamless link between your garden and your house, decking is the perfect way to bring a little bit of the outside world into your home. It can be a great space for a garden party, a quiet night with the family or just somewhere to relax in the summer. Either way, if you are looking out at your lawn and feel something is missing, a deck could be just what you need.

The first thing any DIY deck builder will have to think about is the location of the deck. Beyond installing it in area that is easily accessible via a kitchen or living room door, you should also consider factors like sunlight and privacy. It is always best to avoid heavily shaded areas which can lead to an increased amount of maintaince as well as any area that is particularly vulnerable to damp.

When drawing up the actual design you should also bear in mind the gaps between the boards (typically 5-8mm). While this may not seem like a lot, added together it will increase the overall size of your deck considerably more than you might initially expect. If you are connecting the deck to an external wall of your house, it should start 150mm below the damp proof course and you should ensure no airbricks are covered. If possible, always plan to fit your deck solely with whole boards. This will prevent you from having to cut one lengthways to fill a gap and will create a smarter looking finish.

Finally, you need to consider the gradient (or fall) of your deck. It is important that the deck is built in such a way that water can run off towards your garden rather than just pooling on top of the surface. In most circumstances a fall of 1:100 is advised i.e. for every 100 hundred meters of decking the slope should fall for one meter. For example, if your decking had a run of 5m a fall of 1:100 would translate to a 50mm difference between the top and bottom of the slope.

With the size and fall of your deck determined the next step is to choose your materials. This will typical mean deciding between timber decking or composite. One isn’t necessarily better than the other but what you should bear mind is that while timber decking can last longer it will also require far more maintaince, so if you do not have the time to keep on top of it composite is the far safer bet.

When ordering and before laying down the deck you should make sure that all of your decking boards have been structural treated, especially when working with timber. Always strive to use fixings specifically designed for the boards and remember to treat all cut surfaces and drill holes with two coats of preservative.

Building a deck can prove to be labour-intensive, sometimes requiring precision work. As such you should always take the time to ensure the following safety measures are considered:

• When cutting or drilling always ensure that the boards are firmly secured to an appropriate work surface
• Always wear PPE (eye protection, dust mask, gloves) when drilling, sawing, sanding or applying preservative
• Offcuts of treated timber should be disposed of safely at a recycling centre and not burnt
• Joists can be heavy to lift so take care to ask for a second pair of hands if needed
• When drilling, mark out your pilot holes to ensure fixings are as accurate as possible

The following is a guide for building a standard raised garden decking. Bear in mind that other designs and layouts may not be built in the same way.

What You’ll Need:

• Decking boards
• Tanalised timber (100x50mm)
• Weed Membrane
• Exterior wood screws
• Galvanised or plastic washers (if attaching a wall plate)
• Wall plugs (if attaching a wall plate)
• Square
• Tape measure
• Spirit level
• Hammer
• Saw (jigsaw, hand saw or chop saw)
• Drill driver

Step 0: Attach a Wall Plate

This is only necessary if you are building an attached deck, otherwise, skip to the next step. The wall plate serves as one side of your frame and should first be measured with each endpoint being marked onto your external wall. These will be the corners of your frame. If you are working around a step or sill check that the design of your decking fits by taking an offcut piece of decking board, holding it up to the lowest part of the sill and marking underneath it. Drop that mark by 10mm, this line will be the guidance for attaching your wall plate.

Cut the tanalised wood to the appropriate size and drill pilot holes with a 6mm drill bit at 100mm from each end and then at 600mm intervals. Put your wall plate into position and use packers to support if needed. Drill guide holes into the wall using a 7mm masonry bit, you can then move the plate away and complete these holes by drilling directly into the wall. Insert wall plugs into the drilled holes and hammer them into place.

Insert your screws (6x100mm would be ideal) through the holes in the wall plate and hang galvanised or plastic washers on the end. Enough washers should be used to maintain a 10mm gap between the wall and the plate. Hand screw these into the wall plugs before using a drill to secure them. If you are dealing with an obstacle, repeat the above with a second wall plate.

Step 1: Create a Frame

Firstly, using your plan as a reference, prepare the area for your deck by making sure it is level and weed-free. Install a weed membrane to protect the underside of your decking (this should also be done before attaching a wall plate in the case of attached decking). To create the frame for your decking cut the tanalised timber to the required length and join using exterior wood screws. Check the frame is square by measuring from corner to corner – the lengths should be the same. Adjust if necessary.

Step 2: Raise the Frame

Cut four blocks of tanalised timber to the desired height (remember to keep the top of the deck 150mm below any damp proof course, if connecting to an external wall). Affix these blocks to the frame at each inside corner using at least three screws per block.

Step 3: Secure the Base & Check the Fall

If your decking is sitting on top of grass or soil, at this point you should place further blocks or slabs underneath each leg. This will spread the load and provide a stable base. Position and adjust these blocks as needed. Once this is done you should check the frame is level and that you have the correct fall. Both can be done using a spirit level.

Step 4: Add Joists

Still using the tanalised timber cut enough joists to fix at 400mm centres. Using your pencil mark each joist's location on one side of the frame and then the other. Make sure these are level and straight using your spirit level. Joists can be fixed by gently tapping them into place with a hammer and then screwing them in from the outside of the frame.

Step 5: Add Additional Legs

These joists should be supported by fixing additional legs, spaced at 1m intervals. This can be done as before, again ensuring that each is supported by a block or slab if over grass or soil.

Step 6: Add Noggins

Cut and prepare enough noggins so that they will not be further apart than 1.2m (1200mm). To avoid the issue of skewed screws it is best to stagger the noggins between the joists. As with the joists, the noggins can be taped into position and screwed in from the outside. This should be done with two screws on either side of the noggin, 40mm from the top and bottom of the joist. Extra noggins should be used around any obstacles, such as drains, for extra support.

Step 7: Add the Facing

Measure the length of the outer sides of your frame and cut decking boards to fit if necessary. Mark the boards with a line at 50mm from each end, and then at 600mm intervals down the length of the board in a straight line. These will be your fixing points. Place the boards against the outside of the frame, make sure they are flush with the top, countersink the facing and then fix the screws through the second groove.

Step 8: Add the Decking Boards

Measure across the top of your frame, again cutting boards to size if necessary. Place the first flush with the outside edge of the frame and facing, perpendicular to the joists. Mark the location of each joist on the board.

Countersink screw holes over the centre of each joist and drill your pilot holes. Two screws per joist should be used for each decking board. Continue this process for the rest of the boards, making sure to maintain a consistent 5-8mm gap between each to account for any expansion. Affix your boards ensuring the first and last are flush with the sides of the frame and your raised decking will be complete.

Once your decking has been built, if using timber, apply a decking stain. This will add further protection and comes in a range of colours to match the look and feel of your home. Timber decking may require additional treating annually and all decking should be cleaned of dirt and leaves on a regular basis.

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